Showing posts with label montana. Show all posts
Showing posts with label montana. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

The Glory of Montana's Crazy Mountains

Facing East Towards the Crazy Mountains on MT 86
When I die I want my ashes sprinkled in the Crazy Mountains. Sounds weird but hey... what can I say. These mountains are my absolute favorite place on Earth. I've stayed on the East and West side of the Crazies and both are beautiful. When they come into view I always whisper to myself "I can die now". People talk about Sedona and Moab being vortex areas - areas of a high energy of sorts. I can definitely say that is true of Moab; however, I have never been to Sedona. But the Crazy Mountains...that to me is the ultimate place of energy. I guess we each have our own place like that somewhere. Onto the details and information:

First, some Crazy Mountain history and geology:
The Crazies range in elevation from 5,590 to 11,214 feet and cover an area of over 136,000 acres. These mountains are part of both the Gallatin (south) and Lewis and Clark (north) National Forests. Their jagged jawbone look is due to the alpine glaciation that has taken place over thousands of years. Many alpine lakes (known for the fishing opportunities and their beauty) exist in these mountains. The Crazies display one of the largest igneous rock exposures and are somewhat of a “geologic weirdo” in that they rise up in the plains and consist of much younger rock than the closest mountain ranges. This is one of the “possible” reasons for the naming of these mountains. Another legend states that a woman went crazy due to the death of her family and went into the mountains, never to return or be bothered again. The Crazies were utilized by Native Americans for more than 11,000 years. The Crow and Shoshone hunted in these mountains and camped in them until being pushed out by white settlers moving westward. Many critters call the Crazies home. The world’s largest concentration of badgers live here along w/ mountain goats, bear, elk, deer, mountain lion, and various birds.

Second, the hiking/camping/primitive cabin opportunities:
Parking is available and free to the public at Half Moon Campground (on the east side) and camping is available for a small fee via an honor system drop box.  This is a sweet little camping spot among big evergreens and not far from a waterfall on the trail. The map I have linked to below under the access section will show you the hiking trail system and the location of all access points.  I have not traveled far enough in on the west side; however, I know that there are cabin and trailhead locations based on maps and information on the National Forest website.  Hiking up to the falls from Half Moon further on up the trail that parallels Big Timber Creek was awesome!  That was back in 2004 and was way before my hiking passion peaked.  I wished I would have hiked on up to a glacial lake further, but hey... that's another reason to go back.  I attempted to do some hiking from the west side two years ago; however, as stated below under the access section, that didn't work out too well.  The trail system is a bit erratic to say the least.  Once you get up and into the Crazies, you are pretty much on your own w/ peak and lake bagging.  Much of it will require bushwacking and map/compass navigation (both of which I would love to try in these mountains).  There are some forest service cabins for rent, which you can check out at : http://www.recreation.gov/.  The cabin names are Ibex and Porcupine if you wanted to search by cabin.

Third, the photography opportunities:
What can I say about the photography... how 'bout just looking at some pictures?  Unfortunately, when I stayed on the East side, I wasn't in the digital world yet and have not scanned the pictures I took onto my computer; however, I've got pics from the West side:

Abandoned House - facing East toward Crazies
Taken from the yard at Horse Camp Cabin vacation rental
Sunrise over the Crazies - taken facing East
Fourth, the red tape and access to the mountains:

The Crazies are considered roadless, which may lead you to believe they are protected from development of any sort.  Despite the fact that these mountains are part of the National Forest system, these mountains are NOT considered wilderness.  Much of the surrounding land is privately held and these folks tend to restrict the public (which is their legal right to do, as their land is their land).  There are three major access points that I am aware of (and one which I have used) to get into the Crazies.  I stayed at a cabin (covered below) along Big Timber Canyon Road on the East side.  Outside of Big Timber MT (along I-90), you will take US191 North to Big Timber Canyon Road on your left.  Head towards the Crazy Mountains on this road (and it is glorious in the morning I tell you).  In about 14 miles, you will wind up at Half Moon Campground and the trailhead.  I was able to get back there w/ a PT Cruiser.  I had to dodge a few potholes and rocks, but all went well.  There was a guy back there w/ a 5th wheel, so you will be ok – just watch out if you have to pass someone.  You will encounter private land here!  At one point, there is a gate to a Dude Ranch – you will go through the gate (make sure you close it when you are through if it wasn’t open) and continue on towards Half Moon.  As long as you stay on the road and don’t go wandering around someone’s land, you will be fine – just respect private property.  

The West side has access via Cottonwood Road.  I stayed at a cabin off of Shields River Road and attempted to access via Cottonwood Road (off of US89 outside of Clyde Park) w/ a Nissan Altima (yeah I turned around – that didn’t work).  You can get out on the dirt roads so far and then there will be a warning sign for the road ahead.  I started out and it wasn’t long before it got funky to say the least.  A jeep (or any high clearance vehicle) will make it w/ no problems.  You could probably do so w/out 4x4 even; however, a low clearance sedan is not the vehicle to take. There is another area on the West side that gives more northerly access via the Porcupine Road.  You will follow the Shields River Road until you hit Porcupine Road, then turn right on Porcupine, which takes you to the trailhead/cabin rental area.  I didn't even attempt that one in the sedan ;-)  I know my limits.

Checkout this link to a map of the Crazy Mountain area: http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5138817.pdf
Or contact the Gallatin NF Yellowstone District office at: (406) 932-5155
For Lewis and Clark NF, contact the Musselshell District at: (406) 632-4391

Fifth, some vacation cabins to stay at:

Horse Camp Cabin in the Shields River Valley
I have stayed at two vacation home cabins on both sides of the Crazies.  On the East side, I stayed at Crazy Peak Cabin (beautiful place) where I woke up every morning in the loft, sat up, and stared out at the sunrise hitting the mountains.  The kitchen/living room was an open floor plan w/ a small porch area to just sit and look out over everything.  I loved it there and would definitely return.
Check out this link for pictures/details on this cabin: http://www.cabincreekmt.com/crazypeak.html

On the West side, I stayed at Horse Camp Cabin (another beautiful place) where I sat on the porch every night and watched the sun set over the Crazies.  Another open floor plan w/ a huge kitchen area for me to cook my rib eye and drink my wine.  Check out this link for pictures/details on this cabin (and other cabins in the area that may interest you): http://bookings.mountain-home.com/Unit.mvc/Details/35306

Links that are worth while to checkout (and where some of my historical and geological information was obtained from):

If you are in the state of Montana, I would highly recommend spending some time in (or along side) the Crazy Mountains.  Even if you don't rent a cabin, hike, or camp out... it is definitely worth it from a visual perspective to just drive around staring at it all day!

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Fire Towers Rule!

In 2008 I decided I wanted to stay in a fire tower on my trip out west.  I started researching online and found what looked like two fire towers to stay in that were right up my alley.  I wanted remoteness and I definitely got it!

The first tower was McCart Lookout located in Montana (my favorite state - absolute favorite state - never get sick of what I see there).  It was outside of Sula MT that I picked up a forest service road and drove up to a trail head to park (as the tower was only accessible by a 1.5 mile moderate hike or horseback).  I threw on my AARP backpack (this thing is external frame for God's sake but it did the job) and hiked up.  What a view up there... just forest and silence for miles.  And the size of the thing was pretty amazing... I didn't realize (in comparison to the eastern towers I have seen) just how spacious the towers out west are.

Trail in the Anaconda Pintler Wilderness on the way to McCart Lookout Tower
The majority of these towers (the vast majority) have no power, running water, or amenities that some people absolutely require.  In case you were wondering why I would need an external frame backpack on a 1.5 mile hike... it was carry in/carry out and you had to bring your own sleeping back, food, and water.  The sweet thing about the tower was the fireplace.  It was nice to build a wood fire to keep toasty in there, although in the morning (like a dork) I had the damper closed and the tower filled up w/ smoke leaving me and my gear to reek of wood (but I kinda thought that was cool to smell like woodsmoke).  It also made for an interesting evening when the sun went down.  No lights!  I played solitaire in there until I couldn't see anymore... then I hit the sack and woke up in the middle of the night to see the stars.  The tower offered a 360 view - a big square of windows with a 360 catwalk around... these towers just rock!

McCart Lookout (aka Fire) Tower near Sula Montana
Inside the tower w/ the stove that kept me warm (and heated my coffee)
Another fascinating thing that I learned about fire towers was a method for determining location to a fire.  Most towers were once equipped w/ an instrument known as an Osborne Fire Finder.  I didn't know jack about these until I got to McCart...there was one of them in the tower.  The fire finder operates as a site for determining orientation of a distant object (i.e. the fire) coupled w/ a topo map to determine actual fire location.  What a neat piece of history to see and use while staying at the tower.  The following links have good info on the fire finder:


http://www.socalfirelookouts.org/Osborne%20Fire-Finder%20History.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osborne_Fire_Finder

Osborne Fire Finder at McCart Tower
The second tower I went to was Fall Mountain Tower outside of John Day Oregon (another wonderful western state!).  Although it was up a long forest service road (and my car bottomed out - whoops!), there was power to it.  If I'm not mistaken (and I should look it up but I'm too lazy right now ;-) this is the only fire tower in OR that has power.  It had lights, a stove, and even outlets.  I still had to go to the outhouse though!  Fall Mountain offered beautiful views and had the same layout and design as McCart.  One difference...when the wind  blew at Fall Mountain I really noticed it.  The best part... I found this little wooden stool w/ insulators (like the old kind you see in antique stores that used to go on telegraph poles) on the feet of the stool.  I looked in the booklet left by the Forest Service and this little wonder of nature (I still laugh about this) is what you are to stand on during a lightning storm.  Yikes!

Fall Mountain Fire Tower near John Day Oregon
Inside Fall Mountain Tower
The Infamous Stool to Use During a Lightning Storm
Both of these fire towers offered a unique experience that I have since repeated on other vacations.  I try each year to stay in a fire tower or guard station... it is fun, inexpensive, and an interesting way to spend your trip!  The best link for guard stations/fire towers/cabins/yurts, etc. by state is:

http://www.recreation.gov/

You reserve directly through the site, you get the cost, date availability, details on the tower/cabin (i.e. if you need to have 4x4 to get to it or if there is electricity).  Everything you need to get started is on this site.  The forest service site may also have information of use (as these towers/cabins are generally on forest service land):

http://www.fs.fed.us/

I think once you (alone or w/ friends and family) experience one of these, you'll want to start a bucket list of fire towers!