Sunday, April 3, 2011

Hiking in Ricketts Glen State Park Pennsylvania

I grew up about 10 minutes away from Ricketts Glen State Park.  I took it for granted when I was younger: the waterfalls, the forested area, the hiking trails, the lakes.  Now I live 45 minutes away, but I no longer take what it has to offer for granted.  In spring, summer, and fall I usually average 3 trips a week up there.  Its quite a drive after work, but I have found it to be the best medicine for whatever mentally ails me.  It has become my home hiking grounds.  I'm still amazed I didn't care about it when I was younger.  Winter offers much to do up there as well (which I will touch on in the trail descriptions); although I don't go up as much in the winter.  I wish I could come up with an excuse better than "I'm hibernating and not hiking due to seasonal affective disorder" but I just can't find one ;-)

I'd like to touch on each trail at Ricketts Glen and give some highlights on each one.  Keep in mind that there are multiple ways to start/connect these trails together and there is no "right" way to hike them.
As a location frame of reference for the trails below, I recommend having a map handy to get some sort of idea where you are in the grand scheme of things.  Below is a link to the PA DCNR website where you can view a park map and get more detailed information on camping, Ricketts Glen history, cabin rentals, boating, and other good stuff:

http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/stateparks/parks/rickettsglen.aspx

1)  Falls Trail (7.2m): No doubt the most popular trail at Ricketts Glen, this is the portion of the state park that people will want to visit and hike the most.  This trail features the majority of the 22 named waterfalls (only Evergreen Trail features 1 other named waterfall) and also offers what most consider to be the most difficult and strenuous trail.  The way I usually hike this trail is from the "bottom/up".  This generally is my preference, as I like to get the climb over with in the beginning and have the reward of coming back down in the end.  The first 1.8 miles is a moderate hike that will pass by three waterfalls and will lead to the loop portion of the trail at a place called "Waters Meet".  Many top to bottom hikers will cut this 1.8 mile (one way) section off of their hike in order to just do the ~3.2m loop; however, the three waterfalls on this section are not to be missed if one can help it.  At Waters Meet, the trail diverges and you can elect to go up the Ganoga Glen side or the Glen Leigh side.  I prefer going up Ganoga (slightly steeper and longer) and coming down Leigh.  Some of my favorite falls on the Ganoga side are Tuscarora and Ganoga (the highest fall in the park at 94').  Some favorites on the Leigh side are Onondaga, FL Ricketts, and Ozone.  This loop is connected by Highland Trail at the top, which is a short >1mile trail connecting the two glens.  Highland can be accessed at the top by the Beach or Lake Rose parking lots for top to bottom hikers.
* A winter note:  someday I plan on hiking this trail in the winter.  It is allowed ONLY with the proper winter gear (minimal hiking equipment includes crampons, ice axes, and rope).  See the DCNR website for updates as to the status of this trail.

Onondaga Fall on Falls Trail (Glen Leigh)
Harrison Wright Falls on Falls Trail

2) Evergreen Trail (1m): This easy 1 miler goes by Adams waterfall and provides a 1 mile loop through some old growth evergreens.

3) Old Bulldozer Road Trail (2.9m - one way):  This trail (IMHO) is the most difficult.  Don't let the "short" distance fool you.  This trail doesn't have the "stair step" feel like Falls Trail.  You are going to climb steep with no switchbacks for about 1+ miles to the top.  The top then levels off and will gently descend and intersect with Mountain Springs Trail.  A long strenuous loop can be made out of Bulldozer, Mountain Springs, and the Falls Trail if desired. 

4) Grandview Trail (1.8m):  This loop trail takes you up an access road to an old fire tower (no longer climbable by the public) and brings you back via a semi-rocky loop through the woods.

Fire Tower at top of Grandview Trail

5) Ganoga View Trail (2.8) and 6) Old Beaver Dam Road Trail (1.2m):  I have grouped these two trails together, as they make a great 4 mile loop over the flat top portion of Red Rock Mountain.  They also have "side shoots" that go off to the Ganoga Glen portion of Falls Trail.  These two trails also make for nice x-country skiing and snowshoeing.

7) Beach Trail (.8m - one way): This unmarked trail follows the beach of Lake Jean and makes for a nice morning/evening stroll (or cool down from a more strenuous hike).

Sunset over Lake Jean

8) Bear Walk Trail (1m - one way): This easy + 1 miler is nice to combine as a loop with Highland Trail for a short hike that will still give you a workout.

9) Highland Trail (1.2m - one way):  This trail is the connector to the glens and features large chunks of sandstone left behind by glaciers as well as a variety of tree types (both hard and softwoods).

10) Cherry Run Trail (4.6m - one way):  This trail (along w/ Mountain Springs covered below) veers off from where you would pick up Falls Trail at the top near the Beach 2 parking lot.  It passes the remnants of the Lake Leigh dam and is a moderate (although longer) stroll through multitudes of cherry trees.

11) Mountain Springs Trail (4m - one way):  This is my favorite trail at Ricketts.  Even though most love the falls (and they are beautiful), I love the quietness of this trail.  You travel through hemlocks and over some rocks in the beginning, changing over to an area of younger hardwoods (beyond the intersection w/ Bulldozer Road) following Bowman's Creek.  You end up at Mountain Springs Lake which makes for a great place to picnic and take photos.  There is also a great deal of ice making/railroad history here along w/ the remnants of old buildings and dwellings.  A long strenuous loop can be made out of Mountain Springs Trail, Mountain Springs Road (3.5m of dirt road), and Cherry Run Trail for a total of 13-14 miles.  The silence on this trail while snowshoeing in the winter and the green of the hemlock in contrast to new snow is awesome!  I love making fresh tracks out there in the dead of winter - love it!

Mountain Springs Lake along Mountain Springs Trail
I can't say enough about the beauty of Ricketts Glen State Park.  Although the Falls Trail is crowded on summer weekends, there are many other trails to get off the beaten path and still enjoy the area's beauty.  I highly recommend a stop here if you are traveling through the area and it would be even better to plan a trip specifically around Ricketts, as several days can be spent exploring here.

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